When I found out about it, I was sitting in the waiting room of a veterinary hospital with my dog. The TV was set to a news channel showing wall-to-wall coverage of a disaster that had taken place on the other side of the world: Fukushima, Japan. My breathing stopped and my heart sank in my chest. I didn’t know anything about that faraway place, but a triple catastrophe — earthquake, tsunami and nuclear meltdown — is the kind of event that floors you on a basic human level.
Little did I know that 13 years later, I’d visit that very location as part of an international effort to revive it. Not only that, but I’d get to tour and taste my way through the prefecture’s many incredible sake breweries, be treated to exceptional hospitality, spend a snowy night relaxing in an outdoor onsen, and so much more.
So come with me as I recall these tragic, humble, hopeful, generous, privileged and of course, tasty moments in Fukushima. I hope you’ll feel inspired for your next adventure!
Places are like people; once something traumatic happens to you, it’s difficult to move on and impossible to forget. The Great East Japan Earthquake and tsunami that led to the meltdown of the Daiichi nuclear power plant took nearly 20,000 lives, and forced more than 470,000 people to flee their homes. It also caused unspeakable devastation to infrastructure and the environment.
More than a decade later, Fukushima still suffers from the economic and personal impacts of these events. Not because the majority of the prefecture isn’t safe — it is — but because outsiders are still wary of the possible health effects of any remaining radiation.
Winning back people’s trust in food and beverage safety is a major goal for Fukushima, and for Japan as a whole. So Tippsy staff made the journey to meet the sake brewers of Fukushima in person, to reaffirm our relationship and experience everything the prefecture has to offer.
A display of radiation levels of major world cities at The Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum | Photo by Taylor Markarian
After 10 years of rigorous testing, the United States FDA officially declared Fukushima food and beverage safe for consumption in 2023. In fact, of the nearly 1,750 samples taken over the past decade, none have been classified as being in violation of FDA standards. And aside from the difficult-to-return or exclusion zone immediately surrounding the nuclear reactors, radiation levels in Fukushima are similar to those of other major world cities.
Despite these facts, improving the prefecture’s reputation on the global stage continues to be a challenge. That’s why Tippsy’s support — and your support — of Fukushima breweries is so critical. Every time you make a purchase of Fukushima sake from us, you are improving their lives. So feel that extra bit of satisfaction in every sip!
https://fukushima.travel/page/safety
About 239 kilometers (149 miles) north of Tokyo as the tengu flies, Fukushima prefecture stretches from central-west Japan all the way to the eastern coastline. It is Japan’s third-largest prefecture by area, consisting of wondrous mountains, agricultural plains and oceanside locales.
It takes about 1.5 hours to travel by Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Fukushima Station. But when Tippsy staff members ventured into Fukushima prefecture in March 2024, we traveled first to Koriyama Station — one stop before the capital city — to visit a sake brewery called Niida Honke.
Map of Fukushima prefecture | Courtesy of the Fukushima Government of Japan
The beauty of Fukushima’s mountains will always stick out in my memory. Watching the sun rise over them in the morning and the snow quietly cover them at night were some of the most majestic, breathtaking views I’ve ever seen. But there are many more things to do in Fukushima than just stare out your hotel window.
During our trip to Fukushima, we toured many sake breweries, sake shops and a whisky distillery. We attended the Fukushima Sake and Miso Soy Sauce Festival, paid our respects at The Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum, and walked the eerie ruins of Ukedo Elementary School in Namie. Massive hotels with onsen surrounded by nature, Tsurugajo Castle, the historic thatched roof village of Ouchi-juku, Kitakata ramen — there’s so much to see, do, drink and eat!
There is no shortage of historic sake breweries in Fukushima. Daishichi Brewing Company, Suehiro Brewing Company, Ninki Brewing Company — the list goes on. Here are some highlights from the sake brewery tours and tastings we got to experience on our trip.
Enormous, traditional sake barrels on display at Niida Honke brewery entrance | Photo by Taylor Markarian
Where spacious rice fields meet the woods, three of the most gigantic sake barrels I’ve ever seen welcome visitors to Niida Honke in Koriyama, Fukushima. Founded in 1711, the brewery is over 300 years old. In addition to the brewing facility, its peaceful grounds also feature a traditional wooden entryway to a garden overseen by a stone tanuki statue. Just outside the doors of the brewery, a worker keeps bees to make the most scrumptious honey, which, among sake and other memorabilia, can be purchased at the brewery’s shop.
Inside the facility is a lot of wood that has been fashioned into plaques, structural beams and fermentation tanks. A jovial frog waves from one such plaque; the brewery’s symbol of dedication to preserving and improving local nature through organic rice farming methods. This commitment was announced in 2011 on the brewery’s 300th anniversary, and as it happened, the same year as the Great East Japan Earthquake.
Giant wooden vats of sake fermentation mash at Niida Honke | Photo by Taylor Markarian
Just when the brewery announced their future ambitions, Niida Honke was faced with the daunting task of restoring the health of their rice fields. Undeterred, they doubled down on their promise to use all-natural and sustainable methods, from pesticide-free farming to solar power. Respecting Japan’s precious natural resources is at the very heart of this brewery and everyone who works there.
They also care for their cultural traditions. Deeper in, large “taru” (wooden vats) are used for the sake fermentation mash. This is a dying method of brewing sake that Niida Honke is trying to resurrect. Few craftspeople in Japan still know how to make these barrels, which have been mostly replaced by steel tanks. Niida Honke uses cedar from their own mountain to keep the craft alive. It was such an honor to see these large wooden vats and even get to stir the mash!
Yamatogawa Brewing Company sake artifacts and bottles | Photos by Taylor Markarian
Yamatogawa Brewing Company was founded in 1790. You can find it in Kitakata, one of Japan’s major ramen capitals, so be sure to eat your fill when you go!
Walk 15 minutes from Kitakata Station to arrive at the brewery’s Northern Museum, where you can view relics from the past, taste their sake, drink the pristine water they use for brewing, and even host a concert in their event hall!
Built in the Edo period, the structure is made from wood, with an earthen floor at its base. It was the original sake brewery before the facility moved to Iide Storehouse — about a 5-minute drive away — in 1990. As a history buff, it was so exciting to be in the same space as sake vessels and brewing tools that have been used over the centuries. While their current brewing facility relies on the latest research and technology to craft the best sake, Yamatogawa Brewing Company is very proud of its roots.
Tippsy staff member Taylor Markarian sips pure water sourced from Mount Iide, which Yamatogawa Brewing Company uses to brew their sake | Photo by Sachiko Miyagi
Did you know that sake, soy sauce and miso are all fermented from the same base ingredient, koji? That’s why we attended the Fukushima Sake and Miso Soy Sauce Festival. This annual event had been shut down since the COVID-19 pandemic, and 2024 was the first year back!
The festival took place at Big Palette, a large event center in Koriyama, Fukushima, which is 15 minutes by bus from JR Koriyama Station. More than 50 sake breweries gathered to offer tastings of their products, including Yumegokoro Brewing Company, Okunomatsu Brewing Company, and Sasanokawa Shuzo, whose affiliated Asaka Distillery we had visited earlier that morning. (If you’re a whisky fan, you definitely want to stop by Asaka Distillery for a tasting! Their Yamazakura Japanese whisky won World’s Best Blended Malt at the World Whiskies Awards in 2022.)
The event drew a big crowd, and if you’ve never been to a sake festival this size before, it will seriously wow you. It’s hours and hours of local sake, food and performances, and you get to speak directly with the brewers. Sometimes, you even get to taste products that haven't officially hit the shelves yet! Long story short, always research local festivals before a trip and either plan your trip around it, or make sure to include it in your itinerary.
We visited in the spring, but in the fall, there are bon odori festivals all across Japan that you won’t want to miss.
A food vendor roasts ayu sweetfish on skewers the traditional way at the Fukushima Sake and Miso Soy Sauce Festival | Photo by Taylor Markarian
The Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum | Photo by Taylor Markarian
While the residents of Fukushima desperately want to build back and move on from the 2011 calamity, no one will ever forget it and no one should ever forget it. That’s why the Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum was on our itinerary, and should be on yours too.
Located on the coast in Futaba, Fukushima, the museum opened in 2020. It was built to honor the dead, the missing and all those affected, as well as to preserve the history, explain the causes and effects, and inform the public about where Fukushima is now and where it’s headed.
Needless to say, it was a solemn and deeply moving experience from the get-go. Someone in our tour group was a local teenager when the 2011 disaster occurred, which made it extremely personal. His sorrowful yet stoic demeanor was like a living monument to the grief of the entire prefecture, and it reverberated greatly with me; I was a child with a mother working in downtown Manhattan when 9/11 happened.
Markers on a support column indicate resting water levels after the 2011 tsunami | Photo by Taylor Markarian
There is an overlook where you can see a vast, flat, empty field before you, and just beyond that, the sea from which the tsunami roared many years ago. It’s a weighty thing, staring out at a calm, sleeping giant that has taken so many lives. Inside the museum, one of the first things you notice are thick lines on one of the large support columns, each marked with a measurement: 1 meter, 2 meters, 3 meters, 4 meters. These are water level markers. Four meters (13 feet) is how high the resting flood waters stood at that very spot, more than a mile inland. And let me tell you, 4 meters (13 feet) seems a long way up when you’re standing on the ground. But this is nothing compared to the maximum height reached by the crest of the tsunami in Miyako, Iwate prefecture: 40.5 meters (133 feet). Of course, what made this part of Fukushima such a world-famous location was the destruction of the three nuclear reactors at the Daiichi nuclear plant.
The Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum is filled with informational displays, artifacts from the destruction, a film-viewing room, and exhibits that showcase future plans for the area as well as disaster preparedness education. While we were there, we also had the opportunity to write messages on candles that would be used in the prefecture’s annual memorial candlelight vigil just a few days later. In that small way, I feel as though I am forever part of the spirit of Fukushima and its people.
Radiation suit | Photo by Taylor Markarian
The surge of flooding in this area was enough to threaten the lives of the children at Ukedo Elementary School in nearby Namie. Just 300 meters from the shore, the school’s staff and students were forced to evacuate suddenly on March 11, 2011 due to the earthquake and the following tsunami. With just a few minutes to work with, they ran for higher ground to nearby Mount Ohirayama, almost a mile away. Thankfully, they all made it out alive, but there were many other children at other schools across the impact area that did not. Walking through the damaged innards of Ukedo Elementary School, with its caved-in ceilings and crushed computers, is a heavy and eerie reminder of the innocent souls lost elsewhere.
Mural of children playing with a dog at Ukedo Elementary School ruins | Photo by Taylor Markarian
When visiting a country with thousands of years of history, it’s imperative that you put some historic sites on your must-see list. Japan has a plethora of centuries-old temples and monumental castles, and because the country only opened its borders in the late 19th century, much of their traditional culture is preserved.
During Tippsy’s trip to Fukushima in 2024, we visited two incredible historical locations: Tsuruga Castle and Ouchi-juku.
Tsuruga Castle exterior | Photo by Taylor Markarian
Tsurugajo, or Tsuruga Castle, was one of the last samurai strongholds before Japan’s feudal era came to an end. The original structure was built in 1384 as a home for the powerful Ashina clan. It changed hands numerous times, at one point belonging to the infamous Japanese warlord Date Masamune. After it was seized by Toyotomi Hideyoshi at the end of the 16th century, it was given to Gamō Ujisato, who built a seven-story castle tower upon the original structure, making it the castle you see today.
Except, it isn’t. The castle was largely destroyed by the Meiji government in 1874, a few years after it had defeated the last remaining samurai during the Boshin War. The castle now standing in Aizuwakamatsu is a replica made of concrete, and was erected in the 1960s. The only original parts of the castle still intact are the stone walls and the moat. Even so, being at a location where such a decisive battle took place is awe-inspiring.
Inside the castle is a museum dedicated to the history of the castle, the local area and the glory days of the samurai. You can also enjoy the view from the top of the castle, and wander around the grounds where you can come across various small shrines and monuments.
I recommend visiting during cherry blossom season, summer or fall. We were there at the tail-end of winter just before the blossoms bloomed, and the barren trees didn’t give it the full impact one craves as a sightseer.
Large shrine gate in Ouchi-juku | Photo by Taylor Markarian
Japanese history plays a significant role in what draws people to Japan. The samurai, the clothes, the artwork, the cultural traditions, the architecture — all are marvels to behold and are sources of endless fascination. Walking the old streets of Ouchi-juku, an isolated post town dating back to the Edo period, is stepping back centuries in time. This thatched hut village is a former rest stop for people traveling to and from Edo (now Tokyo), including processions of feudal lords. Today, it is a designated Important Preservation District for a Group of Traditional Buildings.
When our group traveled to this isolated village (about 40 minutes south of Aizuwakamatsu by car), it was blanketed in snow and silence, making it feel even more removed from the modern world. Our guide helped us rope snow shoes to our feet. In the village, we stopped at various small shops dealing in traditional crafts. The historical town also has cafes and small inns where travelers can book stays.
The best times to do so would be during their annual Snow Festival in February, and their annual Hange Festival in July. Ouchi-juku is also known for their soba noodles, so be sure to eat plenty while you’re there!
After your daytime excursions, you’ll need a place to rest. Fukushima is home to plenty of hotels and onsen that can cater to your needs. If you have tattoos and you intend on using an onsen, ask if they can accommodate you when you book your stay. In Japan, there are onsen and shrines that bar entrance to tattooed folks due to the old association of tattoos with yakuza. However, there are also places that have private onsen so you can book a session just for you and your ink. Luckily, the onsen we visited had just such rooms, and frankly, I preferred having some “me time” in the warm, steamy baths.
“Kankō” means tourismt, and I know that doesn’t sound encouraging to those seeking an authentic experience, but don’t let the name fool you. The rooms are all traditional Japanese style, featuring tatami mats, tables with floor seats, and a cloudlike futon to roll out for bedtime. But if you’re not willing to give up your Western tendencies for a night, they do have rooms with beds available. Personally, I wanted the full “Japanese experience,” so I was happy with my futon. Those looking to spend a little more may opt for a room with a private, open-air bath attached. Marumine even has rooms for people who want to bring their dogs!
View of snow-covered forest and onsen grounds from Marumine hotel room | Photo by Taylor Markarian
Nestled in the forested mountains of Aizuwakamatsu, the view is absolutely enchanting. Being enveloped by trees while soaking in a bath is an almost mystical experience. At Marumine, you can enjoy a large public bath, cypress bath, private bath and sauna. A new, extensive buffet hall opened right before we arrived, so we were some of the first people to delight the seemingly endless culinary offerings. Morning, noon and night, the delicious fare includes traditional and seasonal Japanese dishes as well as Western-inspired meals.
When you wander the corridors of this massive hotel, you’ll also come across a washi doll diorama that depicts an Edo period scene. These expertly crafted paper dolls offer an ornate and impressive glimpse into Aizuwakamatsu’s history as a castle town.
Eirakukan in Koriyama is another large ryokan and onsen that offers both public and private baths. It’s in a less secluded location compared to Marumine in Aizuwakamatsu. Eirakukan does offer a traditional vibe, but the bedrooms are slightly more modern, and each room comes with beds Westerners will be familiar with.
There is a free lounge on site next to the lobby where you can enjoy complimentary coffee, tea and draft beer. For a fee, you can be treated to a sake tasting consisting of sake that is carefully selected by the staff. The establishment’s new restaurant, Toyotomi, opened a few months after we visited. However, Team Tippsy was treated to an incredibly sumptuous feast in one of the private banquet rooms. I lost track of exactly how many courses there were, because they just kept coming. Seasonal vegetables, fish, seafood, sake — it just didn’t end! Something you will learn when you visit Japan is the culture of “omotenashi,” going above and beyond to treat guests with humility and hospitality. I have never felt more full in my life!
Assorted fresh and pickled vegetables and fruits at Eirakukan | Photo by Taylor Markarian
For my part, the most magical moment of my entire trip in Fukushima was soaking in the private open-air bath lined with grayish-black rocks. Feeling the warmth and seeing the steam rise off the water during a cold and snowy March night while gazing up at the stars — what more could one ask for?
Photo by Sachiko Miyagi
Fukushima prefecture isn’t as well known to foreigners as the big cities of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. Here are a few fun facts to help you get acquainted!
When you visit the Aizu region of Fukushima, you will see red cows everywhere. No souvenir shop is complete without these little figures, often in bobble-head form. The red cow, called Akabeko, has become a symbol of the area due to its legendary status. It is the central character in an old folktale about the construction of Enzoji Temple in Yanaizu, which was first erected in the early 9th century.
According to legend, the temple was extremely difficult to build, as most of its parts were sourced from various faraway villages. Ordinary cattle helped the workers transport the materials, but even they struggled under the weight and the long journey. Then, a red cow — “aka” in the local dialect back then could also have meant “brown” — appeared and used its otherworldly strength to help complete the construction of the temple. And so, Akabeko became a famous symbol of strength, spirituality and good fortune.
Photo by Taylor Markarian
“Tengu” are crow-like goblins of ancient Japanese folklore. They are mountain dwellers with long noses and giant wings. Tengu masks, often red in color, can be found in many souvenir shops across the mountainous parts of Japan, including in Fukushima prefecture. In fact, the mid-summer Hange Festival in Ouchi-juku village features a procession of people who don tengu masks!
Imagine my surprise and utter elation when I stumbled upon a gigantic Chansey at a rest stop in Michinoeki Namie! This adorable pink Pokemon has the ability to make people happy and to heal. Its original Japanese name is ラッキー (“Lucky”). The first character in “Fukushima” is 福, which means luck. Chansey became Fukushima’s official support Pokemon in 2019, and Chansey parks were erected across the prefecture.
One of the most crucial locations in the insanely popular manga and anime series “Demon Slayer: Kimetsu no Yaiba” has a basis in real life. The Infinity Castle, an endless complex home to hordes of demons and their leader Muzan Kibutsuji, is thought to be based on Ookawaso, a ryokan in the Ashinomaki area of Aizuwakamatsu. The real inn’s many staircases and its platform for shamisen (traditional Japanese stringed instrument) performances are easily recognizable to watchers of the anime.
Taylor Markarian and fresh, seasonal dishes at Best Table restaurant in Koriyama, Fukushima | Photo by Sachiko Miyagi
Like most people, I didn’t know much about Fukushima prefecture before I went. When planning vacations, it is understandable to want to visit a country’s most popular cities — and you definitely should. But there is unexpected joy to be found by venturing into lesser-known regions. In places like Fukushima, you can experience a real sense of exploration. From the ramen hub of Kitakata to the secluded and breathtaking mountain towns of the Aizu area, there is so much to discover and enjoy.
As the prefecture to have won the most gold medals at the Annual Japan Sake Awards nine years in a row, Fukushima is also a great place for sake lovers. Broadly, the prefecture’s sake style can be described as mellow with a balance of sweetness and umami from the rice. So if you can’t plan a trip to Japan just yet, we urge you to explore our Fukushima prefecture sake collection in the meantime!
While tragedy is part of the prefecture’s past, it is not the only thing that defines the people who live there. Hope, determination, craftsmanship and incredible hospitality all await you in Fukushima.
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Taylor Markarian is a culture journalist whose work spans the food and beverage, entertainment and travel industries. She is passionate about world travel and learning about different lifestyles and subcultures across the globe. Markarian is also the author of “From the Basement: A History of Emo Music and How It Changed Society” (Mango Publishing, 2019). Explore her work by visiting her portfolio.
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