Tokyo is one of the most unique cities in the world. Somehow, it seamlessly blends the old with the new, offering something for everyone, from historic temples and high fashion to quirky characters and neon-lit skyscrapers. When most visitors think of Tokyo, what comes to mind is the busy metropolitan area and the multitude of izakaya and sake bars that line up along the commuter lines. Such establishments quench today’s thirsty travelers and commuters the same way they did for samurai and laborers in centuries past. Lesser known is Tokyo prefecture, which extends to the west and offers a more scenic and natural environment — a getaway that is very much within reach for those willing to travel just about an hour away.
Among all the prefectures in the Kanto region, Tokyo has the least number of sake breweries, but there is no shortage of great sake. Read on to find out how Tokyo, in its own way, can be considered its own sake capital, encapsulating both the historic and the experimental.
The Edo period artwork, “Kamakura-cho Toshimaya Sake Shop Selling White Sake,” is mounted on a wall at today’s Toshimaya Sake Shop in Kanda Square. This piece is part of “Edo Meisho Zue” (1836) by Hasegawa Settan | Photo by Louie Anne Batac-Nguyen
Tokyo, formerly known as Edo, began its transformation in 1603 when the lead shogun, Ieyasu Tokugawa, established it as the political center of the Tokugawa shogunate. From a small fishing village with surrounding flatland, they built what became one of the world’s most dynamic and influential cities. To the east is the coastal area of Shinkawa where ships would bring in goods from Kyoto (the old capital), Nada and Osaka. The Ome area, located west near the Okutama Mountains, boasts a pristine environment ideally suited for sake brewing.
Constructing the city required a workforce of thousands of laborers. Their preferences, combined with the demands of the samurai — who were required to reside in Edo for a portion of each year under the “sankin kotai” system — shaped the city’s culinary tastes, establishing them as fundamental elements of Edo’s food culture. Edo’s regional cuisine, characterized by mirin and sweet soy sauce, harmonized excellently with sake from Nada — especially those aged in cedar barrels. (Mirin, soy sauce and sake are all made with the essential ingredient, koji, which is necessary for sake brewing.) “Taru kaisen,” fast and elegant cargo ships, carried barrels of sake from Nada and unloaded at Shinkawa for distribution throughout the city.
An illustration from “The Birth of the Izakaya” by Ryoichi Iino depicts a scene of life during the Edo period (1603-1868) | Photo by Louie Anne Batac-Nguyen
The samurai loved sake from Nada, but as Edo’s influence grew, the shogun began to support local sake breweries with rice and resources to enhance the quality of their sake. In Tokyo prefecture today, there are approximately 10 active sake breweries, most of which are located around the Okutama Mountains in the northwest. This area offers the clean environmental conditions crucial for high-quality sake production.
The higher altitude means the cold winds from the Okutama Mountains can render the area about five degrees Celsius cooler, on average, than in the capital. Additionally, Tokyo brewers’ primary water sources —, the Tama, Tone and Arakawa rivers — provide water ranging from soft to medium-hard. Harder water accelerates fermentation, yielding a bold, dry sake, while soft water slows the process, resulting in a mellow, smooth sake.
Tokyo does not have a distinct regional style of sake, but this makes sense for the size and nature of the large metropolis that draws in more than 36.8 million international tourists annually.
Believe it or not, there are a handful of microbreweries in Tokyo proper, but to visit more traditional “sakagura” (sake breweries), one has to travel about an hour away towards the western part of the prefecture.
Juemon “Junmai” served alongside butter medallions studded with candied fruit at Toshimaya Sake Shop in Kanda Square | Photo by Taylor Markarian
Website: https://www.toshimaya.co.jp/en/
Nowadays, the brewery of Toshimaya Honten is based in Higashimurayama, west of Tokyo proper. However, the original location of Toshimaya Sake Shop is in Kanda Square in the heart of the city. Founded in 1596, it is the oldest sake shop in Tokyo, and is known as the origin of izakaya for serving sake and snacks that go well with sake. The brewery’s affiliate company, Kanda Toshimaya, opened another shop in Kanda in 2018 called Toshimaya Rita-Shop. Let’s take a look at
Website: http://toshimayasyuzou.co.jp/
Brewery address: 3-14-10 Kumegawacho Higashimurayama, Tokyo, Japan
Specialty sake: Toshimaya is recognized as the original creator of “shirozake,” or white sake — a sweet, alcoholic beverage traditionally enjoyed by adults during Girl’s Day. In contrast, children typically drink a non-alcoholic version called “amazake,” which is believed to ward off evil spirits and purify the body. They also produce mirin (sweet cooking sake) and soy sauce as part of their mission to contribute to the development of Japanese cuisine. Their premium sake, Kinkon, was awarded multiple prizes at the Annual Japan Sake Awards and is used as the sacred sake at two important shrines.
Visiting info: To visit the brewery, take the Seibu Shinjuku Line and take the East Exit from Higashimurayama Station. Walk for approximately 20 minutes along Fuchu Kaido towards Tokorozawa. Brewery tours are offered only once a week on Saturdays at 11:00 a.m., except during special events and holidays. The current tour fee is 1,000 yen.
Tippsy staff members meet with Toshimaya Honten’s 14th-generation president, Toshiyuki Yoshimura, at Toshimaya Sake Shop in Kanda Square. Left to right: Sachiko Miyagi, Toshiyuki Yoshimura, Shino Okita, Taylor Markarian | Photo by Taylor Markarian
Website: https://www.toshimaya.co.jp/sakeshop/index-en.html
Address: 1st floor Kanda Square E 2-2-1 Kandanishiki-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
History: Revived in 2020, Toshimaya’s shop in Kanda Square is a standing bar and sake shop with an “Edo chic” vibe. It offers traditional miso-glazed bites as well as modern East-West fusion appetizers to go along with your sake tasting.
Visiting info: Anyone can walk into this small yet sleek shop. From Tokyo Station, head to the west exits and start at Marunouchi Square for a pleasant 20-minute stroll. You can also take the Marunouchi line to Awajicho Station and walk about 7 minutes to the shop. Just be sure to check their website for their most up-to-date store hours and plan your visit accordingly.
Toshimaya Rita-Shop interior | Photo by Louie Anne Batac-Nguyen
Website: https://www.toshimaya-ritashop.jp/
Address: 1 Chome-13-1 Uchikanda, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, Japan
History: Opened in 2018, Rita-Shop is a store operated by Toshimaya Honten’s affiliate, Kanda Toshimaya. In this standing shop, one can sip on samples of their sake. An interesting draw is the old map of Edo and a book called “The Birth of the Izakaya.” The illustrations are fascinating portrayals of how izakaya have served the working class, including sketches of old izakaya architecture and different tools used in service. One can gain a real sense of the izakaya life and the liveliness during the growth of Edo. The friendly shopkeeper also puts great effort into sharing the history and significance of Toshimaya Honten.
Specialty sake: Rita-Shop carries several brands including Me, which is their line of liqueur; Kinkon, which is their largest portfolio with a variety of styles; and Oku no Kami, which highlights their “nama” (unpasteurized sake) and seasonal sake.
Visiting info: Rita-Shop is a 6-minute walk from Otemachi Station C1 exit; a 7-minute walk from Kanda Station West Exit; and a 6-minute walk from Ogawamachi Station B6 exit. Please visit their website for the most up-to-date hours.
Try this sake: Juemon “Junmai” is a rich and dry junmai that goes well with all kinds of food — a perfect izakaya-style sake! Savor its notes of cucumber, melon and a dash of sansho pepper on the backend that keeps things interesting.
Courtesy of Ozawa Brewing Company
Most of the sake breweries within Tokyo prefecture are located in the western part of the region, about one to two hours away by rail. The most accessible is Ozawa Brewing Company, makers of Sawanoi sake. It is a highly recommended sake brewery with lots of attractions worthy of a day trip.
Website: https://www.sawanoi-sake.com/
Address: 2 Chome-770 Sawai, Ome, Tokyo 198-0172, Japan
History: Founded in 1702, the brewery sits in the Mitake Valley next to the Tama River at the base of the Okutama Mountains. The brand name, Sawanoi, pays homage to the Sawai area, which is known for clear water. The brewery began offering tours in 1966, and over the following decades, expanded to include a natural Japanese garden, souvenir shop, restaurants, museums and a temple.
Specialty sake: Ozawa Brewing Company has very rare access to two sources of clean water: one well, located in the brewery, contains hard water; the second well, located deep in the mountain, brings up soft water. Both are used to make a range of sake. Another unique feature of the brewery is the use of wooden vats in some of their sake production in an effort to preserve the tradition, energy and depth of the sake. Ozawa Brewing Company is well-loved by the locals for making sake for the Tokyo palate. Seasonal specialties include Sawanoi “Hiyaoroshi,” a limited-supply, autumn release sake that is usually available at Tippsy during the season.
Seiryu Garden | Courtesy of Ozawa Brewing Company
Visiting info: The closest station to Ozawa Brewing Company is Sawai Station on the Ome line, which is only a 5-minute walk to the brewery. Once you arrive at the station, you will be greeted by the majestic view of the Okutama Mountains and the natural beauty of the Tokyo countryside.
Brewery tours run for half an hour, twice a day during the week and three times during the weekend. Tours cost 700 yen per person. Although the tours are all in Japanese, an English brochure is available. In the tasting room, you can try 10 different varieties of sake from the brewery, and refills are discounted 100 yen!
Surrounding the brewery are other attractions like the Seiryu Garden, an open-air restaurant that features specialty tofu and seasonal dishes; the Kushi Kanzashi Museum, which exhibits Showa period (1926-1989) and Edo period (1603-1868) ornaments and accessories; and the Gyokudo Art Museum, showcasing art from the famous Japanese painter Gyokudo Kawai. Of course, there are more shops and temples also within walking distance, and nature lovers can also enjoy rafting, fishing and nature trails.
Try this sake: Sawanoi “Hiyaoroshi” is a seasonal sake only available during the fall. Junmai sake is aged over the summer to produce a pleasant umami with a nutty, creamy flavor.
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Serving doburoku sake straight from the mini-vat at Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery | Photo by Louie Anne Batac-Nguyen
Address: 8-5-1F KITOKI Nihonbashi Kabutocho, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan 103-0026
Website: https://www.instagram.com/heiwadoburoku_kabutocho/
History: Heiwa Brewing Company was founded in 1928 — relatively recently compared to those that have been around for centuries! The main brewery is located in Wakayama prefecture, but in 2022, they opened Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery in Tokyo.
Specialty sake: Large windows, a modern coral-pink and light-wood interior, and a curved counter greets you at Heiwa Brewing Company’s “doburoku” (unfiltered sake) microbrewery and bar in Tokyo. Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery uses what are essentially extra-large soup pots to brew their sake on premises. The bar has become famous not just for helping to resurrect old-school doburoku sake, but for making a variety of unique flavors!
This spot offers a fun sake adventure, as the menu features seasonal doburoku tastings. Light bites are available but mostly prepped, not cooked, and served at the counter. We tried five samples including their standard, plain doboruku — delicious! — and flavors such as limited seasonal Japanese pepper, basil, azuki (red bean), and white koji doburoku. You can also enjoy craft beer and other Heiwa sake, such as their junmai daiginjo and their flavored “Tsuruume” series, which is made with Wakayama prefecture’s high-quality ume and other fruits.
Visiting info: Heiwa Doburoku Kabutochu Brewery is open Monday through Friday from 1:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Saturdays from noon to 10:30 p.m., and Sundays from noon to 9:00 p.m. It is less than two blocks from Nihonbashi Station and a 1-minute walk northwest of Kayabacho Station. There is an English menu available and orders are taken by mobile phone via QR code. If visiting after dinner, get there before 8:30 p.m. to beat the crowd.
“Marie Senkin Special Edition 2019,” a special collaboration sake by EUREKA! owner Marie Chiba and Senkin Brewing Company. | Photo by Louie Anne Batac-Nguyen
Website: https://www.instagram.com/eureka.sake/?hl=en
Address: 4 Chome-11-28 2F, Minato City, Nishiazabu, 106-0031
History: Opened in 2023 by Sake Samurai Marie Chiba, EUREKA! is world famous and not to be missed! While this is a bar and not a brewery, we’ve included it on our list because of the rarity of the sake that can be found here, including limited runs and unique collaboration sake.
Specialty sake: EUREKA! specializes in bringing in very rare, limited-edition sake, many of which are only available to Chiba due to her deep connections with the breweries. Special-edition Aramasa sake, for instance, is a big draw for many sake lovers. (She even visits breweries in the winter to help with the work and discuss ideas!)
The establishment is known for the staff’s ability to tailor their service to each customer. One can enjoy the same sake with a different vessel and at a different temperature, paired with another dish, for a unique and memorable sake experience every time. A popular spot amongst locals and international travelers alike, this is a special place where all are welcome and love for sake runs deep.
Visiting information: EUREKA! is open Tuesdays through Fridays from 6:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., and on the weekends from 3:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. It is about a 12-minute walk from Roppongi Station on the Hibiya Line. Reservations are highly recommended as there are only 13 seats and standing room with limited room for walk-ins. The staff is very friendly and an English menu is available. It’s a great place to meet other sake enthusiasts from around the world!
Limited springtime tangerine doburoku served at Hasekawa Saketen GranSta Tokyo | Photo by Sachiko Miyagi
Websites: https://www.tokyostation-sakebrewery.com/english
Address: Centrally located on the B1 level of Tokyo Station (view floor map)
History: Opened in August 2020, it is the only sake brewery located at a train station. Production started the following summer and the first trial nama was made in July 2021. The sake can be tasted at their tasting bar, Hasekawa Saketen GranSta Tokyo.
Specialty sake: It’s all about doburoku here! Seasonal fruits doburoku — peach, apple, etc. — is also a specialty, and with a low alcohol level of 5%-7%, their sake is very approachable. Note the “best enjoyed by” date and consume the sake sooner than later to enjoy optimal freshness.
Visiting information: Located at Tokyo Station, this microbrewery and tasting bar is the perfect central pit stop for those on the go. The brewery is able to microbrew sake in a 22.8-square-meter space — that’s less than 75 square feet! The fermentation tank, which is about one-twentieth the size of a regular tank, is viewable through a glass window on the concourse side, and the “koshiki” (rice steamer) is viewable from a small window on the backside of the brewery. Make sure to check out the tasting bar for limited nama doburoku, 7:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 7:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. on Sundays and holidays. (If the next day is a public holiday, the store will be open until 10:00 p.m.)
Minato ward in Tokyo is home to the famous Tokyo Tower landmark
Website: https://tokyoportbrewery.wkmty.com/
Shop address: 〒108-0014 4-7-10 Shiba, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Lounge address: 〒108-0014 Shiba Wakamatsu Building 10F, 4-7-8 Shiba, Minato-ku, Tokyo
History: Sake brewery and purveyor Wakamatsuya originally served historical figures such as Saigō Takamori (aka “the Last Samurai”) during the Edo period, but went out of business during the Meiji period (1868-1912). It was reinstated in 2011 as Tokyo Port Brewery in Shiba, Minato ward. The brewery’s dedicated restaurant, the tbp Lounge, is next door, and offers a sophisticated space where guests can enjoy sake, sake cocktails and seasonal culinary ingredients via a counter, private room or table. The vision behind the lounge is to change the perception of sake as just an izakaya drink, to a beverage that can be enjoyed by a wider audience.
Specialty sake: “Edo Kaijo,” a sake inspired by Tokyo, can be found in Michelin-starred restaurants and some of Tokyo's most luxurious hotels. They also make plum sake, liqueurs doburoku, and even mead made with honey from Tokyo bees! They take pride in brewing with Tokyo’s tap water to produce small batches of high-quality products.
Visiting information: From Tokyo Station, take the Keihin-Tohoku or Yamanote Line to Tamachi Station, then walk about 10 minutes to tpb Lounge. Reservations for course meals must be made at least two days in advance. The restaurant asks that guests refrain from wearing perfume or other strong scents so as not to interfere with the dining experience. Restaurant hours are 5:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. (Tues-Fri) and 2:00 p.m.-9:30 p.m. (Sat).
Small izakaya in Shinjuku, Tokyo, during autumn
Even without a unified style of sake, Tokyo’s role as a major consumer market has made it the original influencer on sake culture in Japan, dating back to the days when the capital was called Edo. Make sure to explore the massive variety of sake at your fingertips when you visit. Your next sake is just one train stop away!
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Louie Anne lived and worked in beautiful Okinawa, Japan for 10 years, and brings with her a deep appreciation for Japanese culture. As a cultural writer and editor, she seeks to share her experiences and bridge connections with fellow travelers and dining enthusiasts.
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