Where: 127 E Broadway, New York, NY 10002
Hours: 6 p.m. to 12 a.m. (Tue, Wed), 6 p.m. to 1 a.m. (Thurs), 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. (Fri and Sat)
It’s a joke you’ll only get if you know a bit of Japanese. Sake Bar Asoko may sound intriguing in English, but its name literally just means “that bar over there.” In fewer than five words, the inside joke conveys the bar’s — and the owners’ — relaxed, friendly vibe. But even if it went over your head, the welcoming atmosphere and pop culture decor of this Chinatown newcomer sends the message: You can feel at home here.
Shintaro Cho — or just Cho, as friends call him — and Yuri Itakura are two veterans of New York City’s world-famous Sake Bar Decibel. Their decade-plus at the underground, graffiti-laden Japanese dive — so-called in the most affectionate way possible — gave them the experience they needed to confidently open their own place in partnership with Arianna Cho.
“It’s new and fresh and reflective of both Yuri and Cho’s personal experiences growing up in Japan,” Arianna says, “but wanting to translate that into a kind of new community space in the Lower East Side.”
If you’re bringing a date or looking for some atmosphere, settle into the dimly lit front dining room. For a more casual experience, walk toward the standing bar in the back; the tatami-covered benches will make you feel instantly at ease. This is the way many izakaya in Japan feel, but at Sake Bar Asoko, that feeling is even more personal.
“All of the decor belongs to the three of us,” Arianna says. “We have things that range from Yuri’s Tokyo bopper shoes to Cho’s video games to my first grade lunchbox.”
Like going to a friend’s house for the first time, your eye automatically scans the shelves, trying to uncover all of the treasures and small details. A Bowser plushie, One Piece and Kirby figurines, and other Japanese knick-knacks can be found sitting atop and between bottles of sake. The walls are blanketed by Japanese art, such as the black-and-white captures of Japanese photographer Daidō Moriyama — a personal favorite of Arianna. Even sake cups belonging to Itakura’s grandfather have made their way there. The pièce de résistance? An old-school Nintendo 64.
“Maybe if I have time, I play Smash Brothers because, you know, it’s more playable with people,” Cho adds, “But it’s rarely, because I love to work.”
Both the decor and the laid-back nature of the owners serve to disarm anyone who might be nervous about trying sake for the first time — and that’s the point.
“We really want everyone to be comfortable here and have a good time,” Arianna says. “We don’t want them to feel intimidated or scared. We’re going to find you something you like.”
Terminology you don’t understand and kanji characters you can’t read shouldn’t separate you from a truly delicious bottle of sake. To that end, the owners enjoy visiting each table and guiding their patrons on their tasting journey, starting by learning about each person’s taste preferences. In the process, they are able to share the cultural richness of Japan’s national beverage. The Sake Bar Decibel veterans have met with Japanese brewers many times over the years, often hosting promotional events for various brands, so they’re also able to offer firsthand knowledge of the breweries.
“They love to hear the story because at the end of the day, everyone's human,” she says. “They love to hear the stories behind each brewer.”
The sake on Sake Bar Asoko’s menu are given short, convenient descriptions so guests can understand the flavor profile they can expect from any bottle. Also on the menu are “otsumami,” umami-packed Japanese tapas that are meant to pair with sake. Just like everything else in the bar, they’re the kinds of small plates you’d see at izakaya in Japan. Meat-eaters can find classic favorites like karaage chicken and yellowtail sashimi, while vegetarians will be more than pleased to taste chili garlic edamame and daikon radish cream cheese with crackers. Quail eggs marinated in sweet soy sauce — another fixture at bars in Japan — are also available.
Beyond these simple yet mouthwatering epicurean pleasures, what guests can really appreciate is a bar they can come back to regularly.
“I say ‘see you tomorrow’ for everybody,” Cho says, “and then, actually, they come.”
“In our bathroom,” Arianna adds, “we have all these Pokemon cards on display, and Sailor Moon cards. And while we all grew up with those kinds of things, those were all donated by customers. I think it's a really striking detail about our place that everyone comments on. So, it's nice to have [the feeling] like really everyone belongs here.”
Anyone can wear the guise of hospitality, but here, it’s sincere to the point where people want to leave a piece of themselves behind when they visit. Knowing this gives you the sense that, even though you’ve never met, you are connected to a web of people who share some of the same experiences that you remember fondly from your own childhood and travels. That is a feeling you don’t get just anywhere.
So the next time you’re in town and feeling thirsty, or seeking a comfortable place to retreat to, stop by one of New York City’s new favorite Japanese spots, Sake Bar Asoko. You’re sure to find a friend.
See you over there!
P.S. — Bring your Digimon deck, and don’t plan on walking out with a full one.
